Jaunt to Trang, bypassing Bangkok
Published in The Kathmandu Post in 2000.
And the people bowed and prayed
To the neon god they made.
And the sign flashed out its warning,
In the words that it was forming,
And the sign said, "The words of the prophets
are written on the subway walls
And tenement halls."
And whispered in the sound of silence.
As I was murmuring this song of Paul Simon out of my hotel, I saw a neon sign in a distant building on which G-spot was written. Curiously I neared myself to the sign to know what it was. More closer I came, the sound oozing out of the place got louder. Finally I found the place. It's where it's at, the nerve centre of their teenage uprising. This is where their parents' world stops and their own universe begins, where they can finally be themselves. It's Bangkok's Siam Square where exuberantly flaunted MTV generation hangs out. They're dressed to kill in cutting -edge fashions- hip-hop, indie, chic style, spaghetti strapless tops, micro skirt, henna-ed hair, balloon skirts with drawstring hem. In Siam Square, a mobile phone is de rigueur. Holding my breath, I watched a group of Thai teens wearing tight micro-skirt with tight fitted strapless tops round the body which barely covered their bare body . It was the Friday night, no tension tomorrow. That was my first day in Bangkok- the capital city of amazing Thailand and juxtaposition of East and West culture. The tempo of dance and music grew louder as night slipped away . A labyrinth of coffee shops, milk bars and patisseries at trendy pavement mix up with blaring Thai pop music. Seeing the crowd inside the discotheque, I opted to stay out watching hip swinging dance by pretty Thai girls in their sexy, sleazy and erotic gesture. In a corner, I saw a couple of teenaged girls and boys embracing and kissing , ignoring the presence of others. Thinking this street dance would go on till morning, I got back to hotel at 1 am.
My itinerary given by Thai Airways who was my sponsor for the trip had made Bangkok only as a transit place. In fact, I was sent to cover 'Underwater Wedding ceremony' from The Kathmandu Post, a national daily publishes from Nepal which was going to be held on February 14, 2000 at Trang. As I came down to lobby for my departure to Trang, I was greeted by two beautiful Thai ladies who were responsible for media people. In the lobby I met Kim, lady journalist from South Korea and Kasim, a French photographer works with Cipa news agency.
After one and half hour onbroad, we reached Trang Airport where Thai Airways officials greeted us with garlands made of orchid flowers. Trang is a small charming city located 800 kilometre further south of Bangkok. Situated in half way between Phuket and the Malaysian border, Trang is the newest province with abundant marine life inhabiting reef-walls, fringing reefs and caves which incidentally is the hometown of incumbent Thai prime minister. The arrangement of our staying was made at Thumrin Thana Hotel of Trang and I was given a single room in the 16th floor.
Strolling around the characterful town centre of Trang, visitors will discover typical markets, open-fronted shops and cafes, exotic Buddhist temples, manicured parks and lakes beside which food stall serve tempting alfresco meals.
Waking up early next day I proceeded to the airport to received thirty couples who arrived by a special flight from Bangkok. Attired in traditional Thai dress, a bunch of beautiful girls greeted them with traditional Thai dance and music. The sixty lovers rode to their weddings on 30 elephants brought in from outside spearheaded by the Thai government officials and Thai Airways' vice president in two elephants. The caravan of elephants led by a unique traditional Thai marriage procession was greeted by the citizens of Trang with flowers so enthusiastically that as if it's a royal wedding. They were lodged in the same hotel I was staying. Tired of walking from Town Hall to hotel, I was thinking to have Thai massage. As I spoke to an American couple about it, they suggested me to have full body massage for two hours just only in 260 bhat in hotel itself. At fitness centre, the in-charge told me that since room was not free, instead suggested to do at my room which cost only 300 bhat. Without giving second thought, I had had full Thai traditional body massage in my room relieving all my backache and fatigue. She was very good in doing massage in my private parts. Unable to control myself, I erupted all over her hands. Unlike the one I did in Negambo, Sri Lanka, this body massage was perfect in every sense.
I got up early in the morning and headed for Pakmeng Jetty which took us 40 minutes to reach there from Trang by bus. As sea level was low in the jetty, we had to take small boat to get into a ferry waiting for us a couple of kilometre away from the jetty. The ferry journey to the site for Underwater Wedding known as Koh Krandan Island situated at the Andaman Sea was the most memorable one in my life. Climbing the ladder, I occupied a seat for myself on the upper of deck of ferry. Soon I was followed by Kim, Australia's AAP travel writer James Shrimpton, New Zealand's Sunday Star Times Associate Editor Phil Taylor and other journalists. Phil had been to Nepal already once in a decade ago. The small isles in the middle of sea look so beautiful that it resembles almost the scenes shown in a Hindi film called Kahona Pyar Hai.
Koh Krandan is Trang's most beautiful island, and one of the highlights of the island is its beautiful beach of very fine white sand as fine as powder and its crystal clear blue water through which one can see beautiful coral reefs on the north side of the island, together with colourful fish moving gracefully. On the idyllic beach of Koh Krandan, the thirty couples dressed up in the traditional Thai marriage wearing were blessed by Thai elders and the relatives with holy water according to Thai wedding rituals. After the end of rituals, we saw ten couples in scuba gear wearing wetsuits and oxygen tanks take the plunge off the coast of Koh Krandan through a ceremonial bamboo arch that showed two fish kissing symbolising "Sea of Love." Exchanging vows among tropical fish in front of an uniformed Thai officials sitting at a table 10 metres underwater, they showed identification and shook hands with the presiding Thai officials. In the wilderness of sea, they exchanged rings, got marriage certificate signed by Thai officials and kissed through their facemasks. Hundreds of local fishing boats and pleasure cruisers filled up people sailed past in a flotilla. They watched the underwater wedding ceremonies on closed circuit television on the beach.
Apart from Koh Krandan, Kantang harbour is home to colourful fishing boats and one starting point for excursions to countless offshore island such as Koh Muk with its 'Emerald Cave' and Koh Libong. Some of these islands soar hundred of metres above the warm waters, while others offer idyllic beaches and coral reef rich in Marian. Visiting preferring relaxing beach activities can visit Pakmeng for its lovely views, Chao Mai with its pristine white sand and caves, or the towering limestone cliffs overlooking Yongling beach.
The last day I spent visiting Thamlay cave at Trang. We took a small boat to get into the cave. Beautiful old fossil inside the cave itself is the testimony of how old it is. Some of the fossils are like Shiva-lingam in the shape of phallus and vulva. A naughty joke on this fossil by three ladies made us laugh.
Having had lunch, I took a nap thinking my flight to Bangkok was 5 pm. When I came to lobby, I was informed that my flight was one hour earlier than I presumed. I rushed to the airport in another bus to catch up my flight. To great surprise, Sue, the beautiful Thai lady associated with Thai Airways who was the media coordinator for us told me the plane had not taken off yet as it had been delayed for half an hour. Seeing me nervous and perspiring, Sue told me to relax and made arrangement for my check-in. Thanking Sue I boarded in the plane as if it was waiting for me to take off. Briefly landing at Phuket airport, we finally reached Bangkok at 6.30pm. I saw off Kim at airport because she had connecting flight to Korea tonight.
My second time to Bangkok within a week was not as exciting as I thought. We stayed at Hotel Siam City only to get up early morning to catch up my flight back to Kathmandu on February 16, 2000. Missing part of journey was that I could not enjoy Bangkok and its night life for which I am longing to go again.
How to get there
Thai Airways operates daily service between Bangkok and Trang; flight time is 90 minutes. It can be reached by road from Phuket via Krabi, by self drive hire car, tourist or regular public bus. Journey time is four to five hours, distance from Phuket 300 km.
Where to stay
Visitors to Trang will find comfortable hotels in many styles, to suit any budget. Thumrin Thana Hotel is one of the best hotels in Trang. Accommodations on nearby beaches and islands range from well-appointed small resort hotels, to escapist bungalows and modest thatched lodges for budget travellers.
Things to buy
Southern Thailand offers rich rewards for keen shoppers, local varieties of batik, handwoven cottons and silk are among best buys, available as fabric lengths, made-up fashions, or household items. Crafted shell and woven cane wares, pearls, jewellery, wood carving, art and paintings, ceramics and colourful woven floor mats all make wonderful gifts and souvenirs. Prices are low but remember to bargain.
Dining and Entertainment
The cuisine in Trang id deliciously different from other parts of Thailand, a blending of Thai, Malay, Chinese and Indian influences. Seafood is, naturally, a major highlight, to be enjoyed in hotels, restaurants and open-air cafes. Local specialities include crispy roast pork, muu yaang, often eaten with breakfast; a sweet cake, lam poora: Muslim-style roti kaeng; and various rice and noodle dishes, such as khanom jiin, Chinese curry noodles. Vegetarian dishes are also available in wide variety. Many open-air coffee shops specialise in the flavourful southern coffee, ko-pii.
A full calendar of festivals is colourful and vibrant, while regular cultural performances, traditional dance, shadow puppet plays provide original entertainment. Bars, clubs and discos add to the local nightlife scene.
And the people bowed and prayed
To the neon god they made.
And the sign flashed out its warning,
In the words that it was forming,
And the sign said, "The words of the prophets
are written on the subway walls
And tenement halls."
And whispered in the sound of silence.
As I was murmuring this song of Paul Simon out of my hotel, I saw a neon sign in a distant building on which G-spot was written. Curiously I neared myself to the sign to know what it was. More closer I came, the sound oozing out of the place got louder. Finally I found the place. It's where it's at, the nerve centre of their teenage uprising. This is where their parents' world stops and their own universe begins, where they can finally be themselves. It's Bangkok's Siam Square where exuberantly flaunted MTV generation hangs out. They're dressed to kill in cutting -edge fashions- hip-hop, indie, chic style, spaghetti strapless tops, micro skirt, henna-ed hair, balloon skirts with drawstring hem. In Siam Square, a mobile phone is de rigueur. Holding my breath, I watched a group of Thai teens wearing tight micro-skirt with tight fitted strapless tops round the body which barely covered their bare body . It was the Friday night, no tension tomorrow. That was my first day in Bangkok- the capital city of amazing Thailand and juxtaposition of East and West culture. The tempo of dance and music grew louder as night slipped away . A labyrinth of coffee shops, milk bars and patisseries at trendy pavement mix up with blaring Thai pop music. Seeing the crowd inside the discotheque, I opted to stay out watching hip swinging dance by pretty Thai girls in their sexy, sleazy and erotic gesture. In a corner, I saw a couple of teenaged girls and boys embracing and kissing , ignoring the presence of others. Thinking this street dance would go on till morning, I got back to hotel at 1 am.
My itinerary given by Thai Airways who was my sponsor for the trip had made Bangkok only as a transit place. In fact, I was sent to cover 'Underwater Wedding ceremony' from The Kathmandu Post, a national daily publishes from Nepal which was going to be held on February 14, 2000 at Trang. As I came down to lobby for my departure to Trang, I was greeted by two beautiful Thai ladies who were responsible for media people. In the lobby I met Kim, lady journalist from South Korea and Kasim, a French photographer works with Cipa news agency.
After one and half hour onbroad, we reached Trang Airport where Thai Airways officials greeted us with garlands made of orchid flowers. Trang is a small charming city located 800 kilometre further south of Bangkok. Situated in half way between Phuket and the Malaysian border, Trang is the newest province with abundant marine life inhabiting reef-walls, fringing reefs and caves which incidentally is the hometown of incumbent Thai prime minister. The arrangement of our staying was made at Thumrin Thana Hotel of Trang and I was given a single room in the 16th floor.
Strolling around the characterful town centre of Trang, visitors will discover typical markets, open-fronted shops and cafes, exotic Buddhist temples, manicured parks and lakes beside which food stall serve tempting alfresco meals.
Waking up early next day I proceeded to the airport to received thirty couples who arrived by a special flight from Bangkok. Attired in traditional Thai dress, a bunch of beautiful girls greeted them with traditional Thai dance and music. The sixty lovers rode to their weddings on 30 elephants brought in from outside spearheaded by the Thai government officials and Thai Airways' vice president in two elephants. The caravan of elephants led by a unique traditional Thai marriage procession was greeted by the citizens of Trang with flowers so enthusiastically that as if it's a royal wedding. They were lodged in the same hotel I was staying. Tired of walking from Town Hall to hotel, I was thinking to have Thai massage. As I spoke to an American couple about it, they suggested me to have full body massage for two hours just only in 260 bhat in hotel itself. At fitness centre, the in-charge told me that since room was not free, instead suggested to do at my room which cost only 300 bhat. Without giving second thought, I had had full Thai traditional body massage in my room relieving all my backache and fatigue. She was very good in doing massage in my private parts. Unable to control myself, I erupted all over her hands. Unlike the one I did in Negambo, Sri Lanka, this body massage was perfect in every sense.
I got up early in the morning and headed for Pakmeng Jetty which took us 40 minutes to reach there from Trang by bus. As sea level was low in the jetty, we had to take small boat to get into a ferry waiting for us a couple of kilometre away from the jetty. The ferry journey to the site for Underwater Wedding known as Koh Krandan Island situated at the Andaman Sea was the most memorable one in my life. Climbing the ladder, I occupied a seat for myself on the upper of deck of ferry. Soon I was followed by Kim, Australia's AAP travel writer James Shrimpton, New Zealand's Sunday Star Times Associate Editor Phil Taylor and other journalists. Phil had been to Nepal already once in a decade ago. The small isles in the middle of sea look so beautiful that it resembles almost the scenes shown in a Hindi film called Kahona Pyar Hai.
Koh Krandan is Trang's most beautiful island, and one of the highlights of the island is its beautiful beach of very fine white sand as fine as powder and its crystal clear blue water through which one can see beautiful coral reefs on the north side of the island, together with colourful fish moving gracefully. On the idyllic beach of Koh Krandan, the thirty couples dressed up in the traditional Thai marriage wearing were blessed by Thai elders and the relatives with holy water according to Thai wedding rituals. After the end of rituals, we saw ten couples in scuba gear wearing wetsuits and oxygen tanks take the plunge off the coast of Koh Krandan through a ceremonial bamboo arch that showed two fish kissing symbolising "Sea of Love." Exchanging vows among tropical fish in front of an uniformed Thai officials sitting at a table 10 metres underwater, they showed identification and shook hands with the presiding Thai officials. In the wilderness of sea, they exchanged rings, got marriage certificate signed by Thai officials and kissed through their facemasks. Hundreds of local fishing boats and pleasure cruisers filled up people sailed past in a flotilla. They watched the underwater wedding ceremonies on closed circuit television on the beach.
Apart from Koh Krandan, Kantang harbour is home to colourful fishing boats and one starting point for excursions to countless offshore island such as Koh Muk with its 'Emerald Cave' and Koh Libong. Some of these islands soar hundred of metres above the warm waters, while others offer idyllic beaches and coral reef rich in Marian. Visiting preferring relaxing beach activities can visit Pakmeng for its lovely views, Chao Mai with its pristine white sand and caves, or the towering limestone cliffs overlooking Yongling beach.
The last day I spent visiting Thamlay cave at Trang. We took a small boat to get into the cave. Beautiful old fossil inside the cave itself is the testimony of how old it is. Some of the fossils are like Shiva-lingam in the shape of phallus and vulva. A naughty joke on this fossil by three ladies made us laugh.
Having had lunch, I took a nap thinking my flight to Bangkok was 5 pm. When I came to lobby, I was informed that my flight was one hour earlier than I presumed. I rushed to the airport in another bus to catch up my flight. To great surprise, Sue, the beautiful Thai lady associated with Thai Airways who was the media coordinator for us told me the plane had not taken off yet as it had been delayed for half an hour. Seeing me nervous and perspiring, Sue told me to relax and made arrangement for my check-in. Thanking Sue I boarded in the plane as if it was waiting for me to take off. Briefly landing at Phuket airport, we finally reached Bangkok at 6.30pm. I saw off Kim at airport because she had connecting flight to Korea tonight.
My second time to Bangkok within a week was not as exciting as I thought. We stayed at Hotel Siam City only to get up early morning to catch up my flight back to Kathmandu on February 16, 2000. Missing part of journey was that I could not enjoy Bangkok and its night life for which I am longing to go again.
How to get there
Thai Airways operates daily service between Bangkok and Trang; flight time is 90 minutes. It can be reached by road from Phuket via Krabi, by self drive hire car, tourist or regular public bus. Journey time is four to five hours, distance from Phuket 300 km.
Where to stay
Visitors to Trang will find comfortable hotels in many styles, to suit any budget. Thumrin Thana Hotel is one of the best hotels in Trang. Accommodations on nearby beaches and islands range from well-appointed small resort hotels, to escapist bungalows and modest thatched lodges for budget travellers.
Things to buy
Southern Thailand offers rich rewards for keen shoppers, local varieties of batik, handwoven cottons and silk are among best buys, available as fabric lengths, made-up fashions, or household items. Crafted shell and woven cane wares, pearls, jewellery, wood carving, art and paintings, ceramics and colourful woven floor mats all make wonderful gifts and souvenirs. Prices are low but remember to bargain.
Dining and Entertainment
The cuisine in Trang id deliciously different from other parts of Thailand, a blending of Thai, Malay, Chinese and Indian influences. Seafood is, naturally, a major highlight, to be enjoyed in hotels, restaurants and open-air cafes. Local specialities include crispy roast pork, muu yaang, often eaten with breakfast; a sweet cake, lam poora: Muslim-style roti kaeng; and various rice and noodle dishes, such as khanom jiin, Chinese curry noodles. Vegetarian dishes are also available in wide variety. Many open-air coffee shops specialise in the flavourful southern coffee, ko-pii.
A full calendar of festivals is colourful and vibrant, while regular cultural performances, traditional dance, shadow puppet plays provide original entertainment. Bars, clubs and discos add to the local nightlife scene.

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