Manang Diary
The following account from my dairy is not a standard trekking itinerary for trekkers. Nevertheless, prospective trekkers to Manang or Annapurna Circuit may find it useful when they are making trip to this area. I made this trek from April 9 to 15, 2004 just to attend Destination Manang Programme but I enjoyed it beyond my official obligation. Fascinated by the wonderful gift of nature and cultural richness, I found so many foreign trekkers who could not remain silent without praising its grandeur and warmth of people living there. Asked about her reaction about the place she so far trekked, an Austrian girl who trekked with us all the way from Nyagdi said she had never imagined that people could live happily without car, mobile, internet but nay! she was wrong because on the way she saw so many people living cheerfully and contented with what they have. I will post another diary of short trek that I made to Namche from April 24 to 27, 2004 in the process of organizing Tenzing Hillary Everest Marathon to be held on May 29, 2004.
April 09, 2004
Boarded a bus and headed to Besisahar(823m), a gateway to the Annapurna Circuit from where trek to Manang and Thorung La Pass starts. Trekking permit can be bought from here for Annapurna region. Almost all trekkers start trek from here. But we decided to go further by local bus to Khudi. We crossed the first bridge made of wood to reach Bulbule. Generally, trekkers opt to stay in Bulbule. But we kept on moving. Finally little exhausted we called it a day at Nyagdi, a village above the roaring river Marsyangdi.
April 10
Got up early in the morning, had tea and marched on. Reached Bahundanda (1311m), a hilltop village inhabited by Bahuns, high caste Brahmin of Nepal after step climbing for breakfast. All of my friends left me behind as I am a slow-trekker. When I caught them up at Jagat (1341m) for lunch, they were preparing for their trekking. Had poorly cooked lunch at Sushma’s hotel managed by a guy. Since it was already 4 pm, he told me to stay back there. Afraid of his homosexual tendency, I tiptoed and ended my trekking at Chamje(1433m). It lies in a transition zone between the lowlands and the Tibetan Plateau along the gorge of Marsyangdi River.
April 11
With anxiety to meet my friends, I woke up at 4:45 am and started walking. It was still dark and my small pen-torch light could hardly show my way. I crossed the bridge but lost my way as I climbed the hill instead of walking along the river and reached the dead end. Realizing my mistake, I came down and made my way up along the river, passing through the now gorge-like section of the valley, formed between the flanks of Peak 29 and Lamjung Himal. At Tal(1707m), I met my friends whom I missed earlier and had breakfast provided by Aama Samuha( Mothers’ Group). Tal is believed to be a lake formed hundreds of years ago made by blockade of Marysandgi river by a huge landslide. Even now most of the waters of the river flow underground. Safe drinking water is made available for trekkers at a reasonable price. I wanted to make it Chame today. But after crossing Dharapani(1931m) where the gorge of Marsyangdi ends and Bhagarchhap(2164m), I decided to stay at the nearest village that I could possible get. I got confused at a point where the sign shows the upper one is the way to Manang. I followed the signage. But this way seemed to be endless path for me because I could not see a single house amidst woods though I longed to call a day whenever I get the one. Fearing that I would get lost, I quickened my pace. And, lo and behold! I saw a lodge and requested the owner for night stay. I came to know that this village I stayed is called Temung which my friends missed as they took the lower path.
April 12
Waking up early, I headed for Chame( 2713m), district headquarters of Manang. Climbing up, I reached Koto(2629m), from where the road to Nar and Phu, primitive villages recently opened for tourists separated from the main road. Reached Chame around 9 am to attend Destination Manang function at 2pm. Diplomats from Kathmandu, government high officials and media persons from Kathmandu made the function lively. Promoted by Nepal Tourism Board and organized by Manang Youth Society, Destination Manang looks forward to receive more tourists in the area. The function went off well and we had New Year Eve party.
April 13
Nepal New Year 2061. We wished Happy New Year to everybody that we came across while making way to Pisang(3185m). I got amazed to see the trek route made out of huge boulder just above Marsyangdi river. Trek was slow and steady. We reached Bhratang(2919m). The village of Bhratang is a cluster of a few building, preceded by a long mani prayer wall containing stone tablets with Tibetan inscriptions and a chorten built over the path. This place was inhabited by Khampas of Tibet who waged war against Chinese government with the support of Americans. From Bhratang it is a short trek to Pisang which is base for those attempting Pisang Peak and it is the first village in the Neshang area of Manang. We saw beautiful views of Annapurnas from this village. Some of our fellow trekkers dared to go Ghyaru (3673m) in the evening but I stayed back at Pisang.
April 14
Had breakfast early in the morning and started walking. Reached Hunde, the airport of Manang for lunch. Our friends who left us yesterday for Ghyaru joined us here. On the way to Manang(3351m), there is a beautiful village called Braga(3505m) terracing the dusty hillside to the right. It contains one of the oldest monasteries in Manang which is perhaps more than four centuries old and belongs to Kargyupa sect of Lamaism. Perched above the hill, this picturesque village abandoned by its residents appears as a picture in a calendar hanging on a wall. We took photos and started walking. Finally, we reached our destination- MANANG where were welcomed by a pagoda-style entrance arch and stupa.
April 15
Manang is a dusty place of stone built houses with flat roofs giving way to another house or room above. There are plenty of back alleys to wander along and arches with mani wheels to pass through. To the south the valley is walled in with the impressive bulk of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV and Gangapurna. We trekked down to glacial moraine lake on Gangapurna. Not satisfied with the view, me and my colleague Hikmat Singh Ayer, Manager, Nepal Tourism Board climbed up the steep hill flanked by Gangapurna Lake and moraine mountain to the left to view glacier. Wow, what’s magnificent view of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV and Gangapurna from a close range. It seems the mountains are only a furlong away. Hill atop moraine is where we stopped a while and watched gigantic Himalayas. Retraced back to Manang for lunch. Got back to Hunde for next day flight to Pokhara.
April 16
Early morning scenic flight to Pokhara. After one hour boating at Phewa lake in Pokhara, we took a van and returned back to Kathmandu.
April 09, 2004
Boarded a bus and headed to Besisahar(823m), a gateway to the Annapurna Circuit from where trek to Manang and Thorung La Pass starts. Trekking permit can be bought from here for Annapurna region. Almost all trekkers start trek from here. But we decided to go further by local bus to Khudi. We crossed the first bridge made of wood to reach Bulbule. Generally, trekkers opt to stay in Bulbule. But we kept on moving. Finally little exhausted we called it a day at Nyagdi, a village above the roaring river Marsyangdi.
April 10
Got up early in the morning, had tea and marched on. Reached Bahundanda (1311m), a hilltop village inhabited by Bahuns, high caste Brahmin of Nepal after step climbing for breakfast. All of my friends left me behind as I am a slow-trekker. When I caught them up at Jagat (1341m) for lunch, they were preparing for their trekking. Had poorly cooked lunch at Sushma’s hotel managed by a guy. Since it was already 4 pm, he told me to stay back there. Afraid of his homosexual tendency, I tiptoed and ended my trekking at Chamje(1433m). It lies in a transition zone between the lowlands and the Tibetan Plateau along the gorge of Marsyangdi River.
April 11
With anxiety to meet my friends, I woke up at 4:45 am and started walking. It was still dark and my small pen-torch light could hardly show my way. I crossed the bridge but lost my way as I climbed the hill instead of walking along the river and reached the dead end. Realizing my mistake, I came down and made my way up along the river, passing through the now gorge-like section of the valley, formed between the flanks of Peak 29 and Lamjung Himal. At Tal(1707m), I met my friends whom I missed earlier and had breakfast provided by Aama Samuha( Mothers’ Group). Tal is believed to be a lake formed hundreds of years ago made by blockade of Marysandgi river by a huge landslide. Even now most of the waters of the river flow underground. Safe drinking water is made available for trekkers at a reasonable price. I wanted to make it Chame today. But after crossing Dharapani(1931m) where the gorge of Marsyangdi ends and Bhagarchhap(2164m), I decided to stay at the nearest village that I could possible get. I got confused at a point where the sign shows the upper one is the way to Manang. I followed the signage. But this way seemed to be endless path for me because I could not see a single house amidst woods though I longed to call a day whenever I get the one. Fearing that I would get lost, I quickened my pace. And, lo and behold! I saw a lodge and requested the owner for night stay. I came to know that this village I stayed is called Temung which my friends missed as they took the lower path.
April 12
Waking up early, I headed for Chame( 2713m), district headquarters of Manang. Climbing up, I reached Koto(2629m), from where the road to Nar and Phu, primitive villages recently opened for tourists separated from the main road. Reached Chame around 9 am to attend Destination Manang function at 2pm. Diplomats from Kathmandu, government high officials and media persons from Kathmandu made the function lively. Promoted by Nepal Tourism Board and organized by Manang Youth Society, Destination Manang looks forward to receive more tourists in the area. The function went off well and we had New Year Eve party.
April 13
Nepal New Year 2061. We wished Happy New Year to everybody that we came across while making way to Pisang(3185m). I got amazed to see the trek route made out of huge boulder just above Marsyangdi river. Trek was slow and steady. We reached Bhratang(2919m). The village of Bhratang is a cluster of a few building, preceded by a long mani prayer wall containing stone tablets with Tibetan inscriptions and a chorten built over the path. This place was inhabited by Khampas of Tibet who waged war against Chinese government with the support of Americans. From Bhratang it is a short trek to Pisang which is base for those attempting Pisang Peak and it is the first village in the Neshang area of Manang. We saw beautiful views of Annapurnas from this village. Some of our fellow trekkers dared to go Ghyaru (3673m) in the evening but I stayed back at Pisang.
April 14
Had breakfast early in the morning and started walking. Reached Hunde, the airport of Manang for lunch. Our friends who left us yesterday for Ghyaru joined us here. On the way to Manang(3351m), there is a beautiful village called Braga(3505m) terracing the dusty hillside to the right. It contains one of the oldest monasteries in Manang which is perhaps more than four centuries old and belongs to Kargyupa sect of Lamaism. Perched above the hill, this picturesque village abandoned by its residents appears as a picture in a calendar hanging on a wall. We took photos and started walking. Finally, we reached our destination- MANANG where were welcomed by a pagoda-style entrance arch and stupa.
April 15
Manang is a dusty place of stone built houses with flat roofs giving way to another house or room above. There are plenty of back alleys to wander along and arches with mani wheels to pass through. To the south the valley is walled in with the impressive bulk of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV and Gangapurna. We trekked down to glacial moraine lake on Gangapurna. Not satisfied with the view, me and my colleague Hikmat Singh Ayer, Manager, Nepal Tourism Board climbed up the steep hill flanked by Gangapurna Lake and moraine mountain to the left to view glacier. Wow, what’s magnificent view of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV and Gangapurna from a close range. It seems the mountains are only a furlong away. Hill atop moraine is where we stopped a while and watched gigantic Himalayas. Retraced back to Manang for lunch. Got back to Hunde for next day flight to Pokhara.
April 16
Early morning scenic flight to Pokhara. After one hour boating at Phewa lake in Pokhara, we took a van and returned back to Kathmandu.
posted by Sarad @ 6:45 AM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home