Buddhist Civilzation in Pakistan: A cursory View

Published in The Kathmandu Post in April, 2007

By Sarad Pradhan

Buddhism remained elusive for centuries in India and partly in Nepal where Lord Buddha was born, attained enlightenment and preached his sermons. The Buddhist civilization that stretched from Nepal to Pakistan had gone into oblivion after 10th century in Indian sub-continent until British scholars and archeologists excavated it later in eighteen century. In 18th century, the British scholars at the Asiatic Society in Calcutta still thought the Buddha had been Egyptian or Ethiopian, or perhaps was another name for the Norse God Woden. When in 1820, a British Army captain called E. Fell discovered the great Buddhist stupa of Sanchi in the jungle of central India, he wasn't at first sure which religion it belonged to because he didn't see Buddhists in India then. In Nepal, five lines inscription at Ashokan Pillar at Lumbini discovered by General Khadga Sumsher and Dr. A. Fuhrer in 1896 is the earliest evidence in the modern history that Lord Buddha was born there which was later supplemented by Indian archeologist P.C Mukherjee in his report published in 1901. Though Lord Buddha never traveled beyond Nepal and North India in his life time, after his Mahaparinirvana, Buddhist civilization began to flourish in present day Pakistan, Afghanistan, Burma, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Japan, Korea, Vietnam and China.

Pakistan, though it has identity of Islamic nation, has one of the largest depositories of Buddhist archeological sites in the world. However, the discovery of Buddhist sites known as Gandhara Civilization was made only in the beginning of 20th century. The Gandhara civilization, which flourished in the Northwest region of Pakistan from sixth censure BC to fifth century AD, left an everlasting imprint on the cultural milieu of Pakistan. This is the area from where Buddhism traveled into China, Korea and finally to Japan.

Buddhism was introduced to Gandhara by Ashoka(256BC), the Mauryan Emperor who, incidentally, also erected a pillar at Lumbini indicating it as the birthplace of Lord Buddha. Pilgrims and historians have defined Gandhara,(the land of fragrance and beauty), as “the area to the west of Indus and north of Kabul rivers which included the valleys of Peshawar, Swat, Dir and Bajaur, extending westwards to Hadda and Bamiyan in Afghanistan and Taxila Valley in Punjab in the east.”

During this period of ancient civilization, hundred of stupas and monasteries were erected in Gandhara at valleys like Peshawar, Mardan, Dir, Bajour, Buner, Mohammed Agency, Taxila and eastern Afghanistan. The sculptures and other antiquities that found at these places are masterpieces of the Gandhara art. They depict religious and secular scenes with Greek, Roman, Persian and indigenous influences. Gandhara became sacred place, and pilgrims and monks from China, Central Asia, India and Korea came to see these holy places, and contributed towards local culture. Gandhara saw the rise and fall of the different Buddhist schools of thoughts like Hinayana, Mahayana, Vijarayana, and Tintrayana Buddhism and the reappearance of Hinduism. Out of seven World Heritage List Sites in Pakistan, two belong to Buddhism; Taxila and Takht-e-Bahi.

The sites and antiquities of Takht-e-Bahi, Sahri Bahlol, Jamal Garhi, Rani Gat, Aziz Dheri, Butkara, Saidu Stupa, Andan Dheri, Chat Pat, Dam Kot, Khanpur, and the monasteries in the Taxila Valley provide richest collection of the Gandharan Art to the Peshawar, Taxila, Swat, Dir and Peshawar University museums through the excavations by British, Italians and Pakistani scholars.

One of the major Buddhist sites also known as Gandhara Civilization in Pakistan is Taxila which is located about 35 kilometre north west of Islamabad. The major sites around Taxila are Bhirmound, the Achaemenian site, Sirkup, the Greek Period site, Sirsukh, Kushan period site and Buddhist monasteries and stupas of Dharma Rajika, Julian and Mohhra Muradu. Peshawar was the second capital of Gandhara under the Kushanas from 1^st-5^th century AD. Here, once stood the famous stupa of Kanishka at Shah Ji Ki Dheri, near Gunj Gate known as Mehbooba Dheri, or the mound of the beloved. The relic casket of Kanishka was recovered from here, now in the Pashawar Museum. The Chinese pilgrims, who visited Gandhara during 5^th-7^th century, AD spoke of the glory and richness of the Buddhist stupas and monasteries, specially the Kanishka stupa and the famous Alms Bowl of Buddha. Gor Khuttree, Mahabat Khan Mosque, Bala Hisar, Qissa Khwani Bazar and Peshawar Museum are some important features of Peshawar.

Pushkalavati or Bala Hisar was the first capital of Gandhara from 6^th to 1^st Century BC and is located 30km to the northeast of Peshawar. The remains of two cities of Pushkalavati have been exposed at Bala Hisar and Sheikhan Dheri opposite to each other and located on the banks of river Jinde, a branch of the river Swat.

Takht-i-Bhai town is located 20 km from Ghani Dheri, 54 km northeast of Peshawar and the Buddhist monastery about 3 km from the town. The unique stupa and monastic site of Takht-i-Bahi is now the only site in Frontier Province on the World Heritage List, with antiquity exhibited in the Peshawar Museum. Dir occupied an important position as a centre of Gandhara Art. The antiquity of Dir Museum mainly comes from Andan Dheri, Chat Pat and Dam Kot

Saidu Museum was established in 1959 by the Wali-i-Swat through his private collection and excavated material of the Italian Archaeologists was added to it in 1961. The museum was taken over by the Federal archaeology, inaugurated in 1963 and expanded in 1967. The display was redesigned in the early 90’s by the Japanese and is one of the finest examples in the country. Besides Buddhist art, the museum also houses ethnological collection and some proto-historic remains. Around Saidu one can visit the archeological sites of Butkara I, II and III and Saidu stupa.

Swat Valley is located in north of Pakistan, about 258km from Islamabad. Swat was filled with 1400 imposing Buddhist Stupas and monasteries used by Buddhist for worship and adoration. Padmasambhava, the guru who introduced Tantri Buddhism in Tibet was said to have born here.

Located on the right bank of Swat River, 6km west of Barikot Village along the metal road leading towards Nimogram. It is a Buddhist site consisting a colossal stupa with viharas and votives stupas.

Singhadar Stupa is located 3 km to the north east of Barikot village on the Mingora_Mardan road. It is an eye catching massive Buddhist monument on the main road. Andhan Dheri is a Buddhist monastic complex, stands in the heart of Adin Zai plain, about 8 km north of Chakdara. Butkara-I is located at the eastern end of Mingora. It is a very large and wide stupa and monastery complex. This complex of Stupa and monastery is located about 1 kilometre south of SwatMuseum. Numerous beautiful stone sculpture representing the Gandhara Art and Buddhist cult were recovered from this monastery.

Albert Einstein had called Buddhism the religion of the future since it was compatible with modern science. All Nepalese should take pride to have Lord Buddha born in Nepal; the one who propounded peace, compassion and non-violence. It is a proud moment for every Nepali to have witnessed the Buddhist monuments in an Islamic country like Pakistan which celebrates Gandhara Week every year inviting journalists and tour operators from Buddhist countries. And, it's high time for Nepal to organize such event to promote its Buddhist tourism.